Nestled in the waters of the Red Sea lies one of the world’s most iconic dive sites: the wreck of the SS Thistlegorm. This British cargo ship, sunk during World War II, has captivated divers and historians alike with its compelling blend of wartime history and vibrant marine life. Whether you’re an experienced diver or a history enthusiast, exploring the Thistlegorm offers a unique journey into the past, set against the stunning backdrop of the Red Sea’s underwater paradise. Join us as we delve into the fascinating story of the Thistlegorm, uncovering its origins, its fateful sinking, and the captivating sights that await beneath the waves.
Quick Facts
| LENGTH | 126.50 m |
| GROSS TONNAGE | 4898 GT |
| DEPTH AT THE BOTTOM | 32m |
| DEPTH MAIN DECK | 17m |
| DEPTH AT SHALLOWEST POINT | 15m |
| ACCESSIBILITY | Recommended AOWD or equaivalent |
Birth of SS Thistlegorm
The SS Thistlegorm was a British armed Merchant Navy ship built by Joseph Thompson & Sons in Sunderland, England in 1940. Originally designed as a general cargo ship for Albyn Line, her construction was partly funded by the UK Ministry of War and Transport. She cost, at the time GBP 115,000, the equivalent of about 3 million USD nowadays.
Albyn Line Co. Ltd´s emblem was the thistle. They always named all their ships starting with the word “thistle“: Thistledowne, Thistlemuir, Thistledale, Thistleduhu, Thistleros, Thistleroy and so on. The Thistlegorm was part of that tradition and its name means the “blue thistle”.
She was a defensively equipped merchant ship (DEMS) with a 4.7 in (120 mm) mounted on her stern and a heavy-calibre machine gun for anti-aircraft cover.
After her launch, she completed 3 voyages to the US, Argentina and the West Indies supporting the war effort.
Final trip
On her final voyage in 1941, in Glasgow, the Thistlegorm was loaded with military equipment – including trucks, motorcycles, rifles, and ammunition – and steam locomotives and wagons for the Egyptian National Railways. The military cargo was to resupply British troops stationed in North Africa, mainly the RAF. Recent studies suggest the vessel carried enough supplies to set up a whole airfield.
Under the command of Captain William Ellis and with a crew of 39 men – nine of which were Royal Navy gunners – the Thistlegorm set sail from Glasgow on the 2nd of June 1941.
Her final destination was Alexandria, Egypt. But due to German and Italian naval and air force activity in the Mediterranean, the SS Thistlegorm had to sail as part of a convoy all around Africa. She stopped in Cape Town, South Africa to bunker before heading north up the East coast of Africa and into the Red Sea.
The sinking
Unfortunately, the SS Thistlegorm could not complete the voyage. Due to a collision in the Suez Canal, the convoy had to proceed to “Safe Anchorage F“. On the night of 6th October 1941, two German bombers Heinkel He11, searching for a large troop carrier, the RMS Queen Mary, stumbled upon the Thistlegorm and the convoy.
As the Thistlegorm was the largest ship, she took the biggest hit. They dropped 2 bombs onto it and unfortunately, one of them landed directly into the cargo hold No. 4 containing the ammunition.
The large explosion – large enough to blow off the steam locomotives that were on the main deck 30m away – caused the vessel to sink rapidly and the crew had no time to react or defend themselves. She sank at 0139 hrs on 6th October 1941 and took the lives of 4 seamen and 5 gunners. The rest of the crew was rescued by the HMS Carlisle which was nearby.
A convoy gunner managed to shoot down one of the Heinkels after the initial attack. The 2 crew members were captured and spent the rest of the war as POWs in Australia.
Where is this wreck?
The wreck of the Thistlegorm is in the northern Red Sea on the western side of the Sinai Peninsula. The wreck lies in the lagoon of Shaab Ali, located about 40 kilometres from Sharm El Sheikh.
After her sinking, the Thistlegorm was largely ignored and forgotten. That is until 1955. Jacques Cousteau “re-discovered” the wreck by using information from local fishermen. The first dive on the SS Thistlegorm was featured in his documentary The Silent World. It also appeared in a 1956 edition of National Geographic magazine. Cousteau also documented diving on the wreck in part of his book The Living Sea.
While exploring the wreck, Cousteau and his team raised several items from the wreck, including a motorcycle, the captain’s safe, and allegedly the ship’s bell. The 1956 edition of National Geographic though clearly shows the ship’s bell in place and Cousteau’s divers in the ship’s lantern room. The legend says that Cousteau chopped down the mast so nobody could find it. He then proceeded not to tell anybody where it was….
In the early 90s, as Egypt started to become a popular diving destination, the Thistlegorm was once again re-awakened and has become the legend that it is today.
How do you dive the Thistlegorm today?
The Thistlegorm has become one of the most famous and frequently dived wrecks in the world, attracting divers with its rich history and well-preserved artefacts. It is one of the world’s greatest shipwrecks.
While you can do day trips from Hurghada and Sharm-El-Sheikh to dive the wreck, you will really enjoy it more by diving it from a liveaboard. This will allow you to do several dives on the wreck and if lucky, even a night dive. Our Red Sea liveaboards visit the Thistlegorm during the northern itineraries. By doing several dives on it, you will be able to concentrate on its three distinctive sections and explore it properly.
Nowadays, the wreck sits mostly upright at a depth of 32m in the lagoon of Shaab Ali. The wreck can be subject to strong currents (tidal) and bad visibility. This is why the CDWS, the scuba diving Egyptian governing body, requires a minimum of 20 logged dives to be able to dive on it. For your enjoyment, we recommend holding an AOW certification (or equivalent) and to dive on nitrox to enjoy longer NDL.
The unofficial but nevertheless accepted method of diving the Thistlegorm, both inside and outside, is in an anti-clockwise direction.
1) The upright bow section and the WW2 museum: THE dive of the Thistlegorm
The bow is often the starting point of the dive and offers an impressive view of the ship’s structure. That section is the most intact part of the wreck and is home to the massive anchor chains and winches.
You can then work your way back slowly to explore the forward holds, Holds No. 1 and 2. On either side of Hold No.1, on the main deck, you will find the train water carriers and on either side of Hold No. 2 the train tenders. Below these, inside the holds, you can still find the various vehicles, spare parts, motorcycles and weapons. Altogether, these artefacts combine to create a veritable underwater “World War II Museum” and are the very reason why this ship remains the most visited underwater site on Earth. It really is breathtaking.
The holds contents are a treasure trove of artefacts: BSA motorcycles, still crated with their original packing materials, Morris automobiles, aeroplane wings, Bedford trucks, some with their canvas covers intact, stacks of Bren gun crates, Lee Enfield rifles, and ammunition boxes.
With so much to see in the holds, you could do two dives easily on this part of the wreck.
TIP: we recommend you bring a torch to see all the amazing cargo.
TIP No. 2: when the current is howling, the holds are the perfect place to spend a dive: sheltered!
2) The Midship Section and Holds No. 4
The midship is the most complex part of the wreck and is heavily damaged due to the bomb that sank the ship. Here, you’ll find the engine room, the crew quarters, and a range of war supplies, including ammunition, trucks, and aeroplane parts. The midship also offers access to the bridge and other internal areas. There is then a large sheet of upturned decking which stretches almost to the bridge deck.
- The wheelhouse. Though much of the wooden elements have decayed over time, the metal structures remain. This gives you a sense of the ship’s layout and where the crew would have managed the vessel.
- The officers’ quarters are located near the bridge, close to the Captain’s quarters and other command areas. These quarters were for the ship’s senior crew members. They offered slightly more comfortable accommodations. You may still find remnants of furniture, such as bed frames, desks, and the iconic bathtub.
- The crew quarters are located towards the lower parts, closer to the engine room. These areas were more functional, with bunk beds and shared spaces. The crew quarters, although more sparse, also contain relics of daily life, such as boots, personal items, and tools. These items are among the debris.
- Hold No. 4 is the deepest section at approximately 32 meters. It reveals a diverse collection: gas masks, boots neatly stacked in crates, and even a Bofors anti-aircraft gun carriage.
- The damaged zone comprises a pile of ammunition boxes on top of which are Bren-carriers and a trailer.
TIP: This section requires careful navigation due to its complexity and the potential for sharp metal edges. If you venture inside, be mindful of your air consumption and always maintain a clear exit route. A torch is essential for exploring the darker areas.
3) The Stern Section and the Locomotives
The stern is perhaps the most dramatic part of the wreck, featuring the ship’s large propeller and a gun turret still mounted. The propeller and gun turret are particularly photogenic, making this a popular spot for underwater photography. A dive on the Thsitlegorm would not be complete without a visit there!
That section itself is complete and undamaged and lists at an angle of 45 degrees to port. The two guns and the accommodation below their platform are all intact. The rear hold contains additional cargo, such as tanks and train carriages.
TIP: You should tackle the stern section as a separate dive as it is slightly deeper. Watch your depth and bottom time carefully.
As this section is a bit deeper, it is a perfect opportunity to combine it with exploring the surroundings of the wreck. Off each side, you can find the locomotives that were blown off the deck in the blast.
The Sights: why we dive the Thistlegorm
Artefacts
The SS Thistlegorm is famous for its remarkable array of artefacts. It offers a captivating snapshot of wartime logistics during World War II. Most of the cargo remained on board – although medical supplies disappeared. Rumour has it that morphine from the wreck could be bought in Cairo street markets years after the attack….
Among the most prominent discoveries are the Bedford trucks and BSA motorcycles. They are still neatly stacked in the cargo holds, their frames now encrusted with coral yet remarkably intact after decades underwater. The wreck counts more than 100 motorbikes. The ship also carried a substantial cache of Lee-Enfield rifles, ammunition, and various military equipment such as Wellington boots (surprisingly in great majority left footers) and aircraft parts.
One of the most surprising and incongruous artefacts found on the wreck are two LMS Stanier Class 8F steam locomotives. Each weighed over 100 tons and they now rest beside the wreck on the seabed.
Additionally, the personal belongings of the crew, including a well-preserved captain’s bathtub and scattered china teacups, provide a poignant and humanizing glimpse into daily life aboard the vessel.
Together, these artefacts not only make the SS Thistlegorm a fascinating dive site but also serve as a submerged museum. It vividly illustrates the scale and diversity of wartime supply efforts.
Marine Life
While the cargo holds are undoubtedly the main attraction, the Thistlegorm is also a haven for diverse marine life. Beyond the human history, the Thistlegorm has become a thriving artificial reef.
The wreck is adorned with vibrant corals and sponges, creating a colourful backdrop. The ship attracts a diverse array of marine life, including large schools of fish, such as barracudas, jacks, and batfish. The nooks and crannies of the wreck provide shelter for moray eels, lionfish, and the occasional turtle.
Conservation
The Thistlegorm is probably the most dived shipwreck in the entire world. It is estimated that more than one million people have dived the Thistlegorm. Unfortunately, its popularity is also its downfall. Since the Thistlegorm was re-discovered in the 1990s, heavy traffic from dive boats has caused the ship to deteriorate rapidly due to the dive boats tying their mooring lines onto it. She is a victim of her own status and is now in serious decline.
One of the biggest threats to the Thistlegorm is the use of steel hawsers to secure mooring lines to the wreck. Unlike ropes, they cut through the superstructure as they rub against it in the surge. In November 2023, the CDWS prohibited the use of wires as well as mooring up on unstable and weak parts.
Divers also are contributing sadly to her decay. The regulations issued in November 2023 now prohibit divers with less than 20 dives or buoyancy issues from visiting the wreck. Touching the wreck is also strictly forbidden, including sitting, holding on to, and kicking the wreck.
Lastly, she is also fighting against an enemy called Time: salt water and metal have never been a good combo.
Respecting the Thistlegorm: Responsible Diving Practices
- You should always receive a proper briefing and adhere to your dive guide’s instructions.
- Limited penetration depths are enforced in specific areas to prevent damage to the delicate cargo and ensure diver safety.
- Buoyancy control is paramount to avoid disturbing the wreck or kicking up silt that reduces visibility.
- Touching artefacts is strictly prohibited – the past should be observed, not disturbed.
- Responsible divers leave only bubbles and take only memories.
- Do not collect any souvenirs. For years the wreck was looted and items regularly turned up on eBay – everything from complete motorbikes to ammunition was taken.
- Please respect the sanctity of the site: it is a war grave
The Legacy of SS Thistlegorm
The SS Thistlegorm is more than just a shipwreck; it’s a testament to human resilience, a poignant reminder of the sacrifices made during wartime, and a window into a bygone era. Divers who explore its depths are not merely encountering a collection of artefacts; they are embarking on a historical journey. Each dive offers a unique perspective on this underwater museum, providing a chance to connect with the past and appreciate the fragility of history.
The SS Thistlegorm stands as a silent sentinel, a reminder of the ocean’s power to preserve, and a call for responsible exploration to ensure its legacy endures for generations to come. The ship went down with nine souls aboard—four sailors and five Royal Navy gun crew members—making it vital to treat the site with the utmost respect for the men who lost their lives.
In memory of those who perished:
- Archibald Giffin aged 18 – Royal Navy
- Donald Masterson 32 – Royal Navy
- Christopher Todds 25 – Royal Navy
- Thomas Woolaghan 24 – Royal Navy
- Arthur Kain 26 – Royal Navy
- Alfred Kean 68 – seaman
- Joseph Rolfe 17 – seaman
- Kahil Sakando 49 – seaman
- Alexander Watt 21 – seaman
A virtual dive on the Thistlegorm?
The wreck is big, in all the senses of the word! In order to get ready for your dives and get the most out of them, we recommend you do some virtual dives on it. 360Tourist has lots of 360-degree tours of the wreck and The Thistlegorm Project has wonderful and impressive DEM and 360 models so you can study each and every part of this amazing wreck.
To dive the Thistlegorm is an honour and an experience that every diver should have during their lifetime. Join us onboard Blue Horizon or Blue Melody to make sure you can tick this must-see wreck off your list.
